HOW'D WE END UP IN CABO?!
2014 Ship’s Time
Dockside, Cabo San Lucas
This wasn’t the plan.
FALKEN made landfall at Cabo San Lucas late on Saturday night. Under a half-moon and clear skies - a welcome respite after the gnarly night Friday - we were in afterburner mode, sailing fast in flat seas on a close-reach, 10 knots and then some, effortless steering. FALKEN loves a close-reach, and with the big yankee and full mainsail we were on fire. As the land neared, the wind spilled off the desert hillsides and the waves subsided in the lee, and man, what a sail.
I love sailing into a new place, especially at night. There’s nothing like it. We got closer and closer to the coast, the land dropping straight into the sea, so there was no off-lying dangers or anything stopping us from doing a fly-by right along the shoreline, the twinkling lights of the houses and hotels growing brighter as we neared. We followed the 30m depth contour along the southern coast and prepped the staysail for short-tacking into the harbor, which never happened because the wind died just as the famous rock-arch at Cabo hove into view. It ended up being a short motorboat ride into the anchorage, which gave us time to strike the sails and furl the main, which is no easy task on FALKEN with her enormous boom and 200-lb main.
We anchored next to a couple super yachts just after midnight, broke out the traditional champagne for our toast and did a round of glues & glows before everyone collapsed into bed at 0200. Next morning we moseyed into the marina and we’ve been in Cabo ever since. We’re supposed to be in La Paz, another 130-miles up the coast and Into the Sea of Cortez!
While ocean sailing is always unpredictable, this time it was preventable. When I first made this schedule, way back in the spring of 2024, I had originally planned to end the trip in Cabo and set the mileage as 800 miles from San Diego. I have a spreadsheet that then advises me on how many days to make the passage, which I then tweak to account for weather patterns, etc etc. Well, when I changed the port to La Paz, I forgot to change the mileage, and therefore ended up short on days. That, combined with our very light-wind passage (until that wild 40-knot frontal passage!) made for a late arrival into a port we never intended to stop at.
All that said, Cabo has everything we need. Great tacos at some small restaurants in town (once we walk far enough to escape the tourist throngs); excellent chandleries and services, a good marina and sea lions barking their heads off as the fishing boats come into the harbor. It’s a hectic place for sure, but these trips are all about adventure and the unknown, and so I’m making the best of it. I’ve been running around the harbor and town the past couple days to get to know the place, and despite the masses, it’s a beautiful spot. Sometimes there’s a valid reason why tourists flock to particular places.
The next crew arrive on Saturday, and I’m off to the Bahamas to meet my dad and help him take his Grand Banks 42 KODIAK from the Abacos down to the Exumas. I’m handing the reins of FALKEN over to Mary. Delaney & Jake, both WOODWIND crew, are onboard as Mate and Apprentice respectively.
Follow along for the next long passage to Costa Rica!
// Andy
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A last hurrah
Under the dome of stars in a moon-less sky, each of us during our time at the helm used the most rudimentary celestial navigation, keeping a star or two lined up with the mast as a helper to following the heading range. It was a whole crew event to set the spinnaker, reef the mainsail and practice the heave-to in case of man overboard. Alex stressed that the key to success in all of these crucial activities is preparation. It was hugely satisfying to accomplish these tasks through teamwork. We share a constant good hearted back and forth full of stories, one-liners and comebacks that also means constant laughter.
One little bird!
Falken has almost rounded the Channel Islands and is cruising along splendidly about 100 miles offshore. Though several models predicted some slightly fresher winds today, we were met with a consistent 18-20 kts of pure bliss. It seems that from the moment we left the dock in San Francisco, there has been much laughter and conversation amongst everyone. The plan is to gybe in a few hours and begin our approach to Ensenada. As much as I do appreciate the jokes and intellectual musings, I equally appreciate the natural, silent moments we share at night, all of us on watch gazing up above to the shooting stars, constellations, and planets putting on their quiet show.
Birds and glows
The sun brought new wind and we were soon putting up the Yankee (jib) and turning off the motor. During the evening tradition of sharing “glums and glows” that follows the crew dinner, our Mate Ryan proclaimed it a “champagne sailing” kind of day. As Alex noted this evening, life goes by so fast that one of the very best things about his line of work is enjoying the passage of time in the slow lane of an ocean passage. But by tomorrow, the green blobs in the weather sailing app indicate we’re going to pick up some significant northwesterly winds and we’ll take them ever further south to the Channel Islands latitude. We’re all super excited for the knots to climb and to see Falken really run.