The word association for this passage thus far would most definitely be rain. I had read a lot about the Intertropical Convergence Zone (ITCZ) prior to this trip as a former Pollywog who spends very little time near the equator. The meeting point between the NE and SE trades also commonly referred to as The Doldrums, known for its distinct lack of wind and unending rain.

This wasn’t the worst spill I’ve ever seen on a boat, but it was close. We’d just taken two reefs in the main and a rolled a big chunk out of the genoa in building winds and seas tonight, FALKEN running downwind, yankee poled out to port and the main prevented to starboard. Regularly averaging 12 knots over a 3-hour watch, and hitting wild surfing speeds.

The last 24 hours have been a relentless mission of opening and closing hatches as the heavy downpours synonymous with the tropics have kept us on our toes. Had anyone suggested a few days ago that I might find myself cold during this passage I would have laughed at the incredulous notion and yet the early hours of the 11th saw just that reality.

Based on the heading above, I’m sure you can assume the mood aboard today. Anyone who has spent time with Andy on a 59º North passage will be innately familiar with Glows and Glums, our nightly ritual of sharing personal highs and lows of the day, followed by the cathartic sound of your choice.

I cannot imagine what the mood must have been like back in the square-rigger days traversing this part of the world. There is NO wind. Hasn’t been for days, but a frustrating swell has us banging around even though we’re motoring at a smooth 6-7 knots.

All the things happened at the same time this evening. We crossed the equator southbound just as the sun was kissing the horizon to the west. We shut down the engine and fired a cannon salute, and with that dinner was served. King Neptune would have to wait until after we ate.

T-minus six-and-a-half hours and counting until departure. As I write from FALKEN's nav station, Emily is on deck briefing the crew on MOB protocols. Point #1 - stay on the 'effing boat! She'll do a live MOB recovery demo shortly, and being that the water is so warm and calm, we'll do one with a live 'casualty' instead of with the MOB dummy.

At around 10 a.m. local time and 15 p.m. UTC the 25th, we crossed the equator!! While congratulations were happening, a lot more was going on. Besides King Neptune making its way to FALKEN, hundreds of seabirds had their breakfast all along our starboard.

For the past few days the weather forecast has been: no wind, not now, not in a few hours, not in a few days, not  ever on this passage. To our delight we have been graced with minutes, hours, days of excellent wind/ breezes. Every chance we get we unleash  that Yankee, grinding the sheets easing the furling line, adjusting the main….

Adventure at sea and what does that mean to me?  TIME AWAY from the world and a chance to meet others who love sailing as I do.  No news, no knowledge of anything but the nature around us, whether that be clouds, birds, dolphins, whales, lightening, swells to ride on, no wind to sweat in and maybe a little swim. 

Waking up for the next watch, a smile crosses my heart. we are under sail! in the middle of the doldrums. i take the helm, feel the breeze on my face, marvel at the ease at which FALKEN…

Another glorious sunset tonight, the Pacific has not failed to deliver on that front at all so far. The steady thrum of the engine and a flogging main sail suggests what we are lacking- wind! The doldrums seem to have found us earlier than hoped for.

By 8am we had our big pink spinnaker flying and managed to keep it all the way until the afternoon when the breeze died off and our iron sail (aka the engine) made an entrance for a few hours. Some of the highlights of today include sighting a pot of Orcas about 5 boat lenghts from us, spotting the Southern Cross….

The crew arrived yesterday on a sweaty afternoon in the Flamenco Marina, Panama. You could feel the excitement of everyone coming on board. Some old friends meeting again, some new people stepping foot on Falken for the first time.

The lights of Colón are clearly visible to the crew of Falken now, the cargo vessels anchored in the deep water are no longer just smudges of light, and traffic has dramatically increased since departing the San Blas islands 12 hours ago.

San Blas: A Hidden Gem in the Caribbean! The San Blas archipelago is little known outside sailing communities, but it is a true paradise. The islands are fringed with lush palms, sugar-white sand, and some of the most vibrant coral reefs in the world. Snorkeling here is an absolute dream

Perfect sailing conditions from Cartagena, Columbia to the San Blas Islands. 15-20 knots on the beam, 8+ knots over the ground. 1 reef in the main and full Yankee, Falken is a real joy to sail.

Great team effort on the pilotage out of a busy port and challenging entry into San Blas

Land Ho!!! 17 days since we last saw land. A very special feeling spreads onboard when the beautiful peaks of La Palma suddenly appear in the distance. We turn towards each other, ’ha! We did it!’

One might have thought that Cartagena would stand in stark contrast to the thrilling last few hours of our previous passage, providing us with calm and serenity after somewhat of a wild ride. But that would have been a vast underestimating of the exciting city that is Cartagena.

And so we embark on our final leg of the voyage, just as we began…….Adrienne is looking her finest, dressed in a double-reefed main and the staysail holding strong, constantly drenched in saltwater and driving hard!