05 32.812 N 087 03.790 W
After a good night’s rest on a mooring in Chatham Bay, we had a visit from one of the park rangers to give us an overview of the island’s rules and regulations. His visit turned into more of a tour than an official visit, which we appreciated. All our passports were stamped with the coolest stamp ever, a graphic of a hammerhead shark.
We split into two groups: one went to do a hike up to the ranger station, and one went snorkeling around the bay, switching the groups after lunch.
Hiking up to the ranger station on the zig-zag trail gave us stunning views of the clear waters of Chatham Bay. The pristine forest was something to experience; it seems like it has not been touched for hundreds of years. The trail starts and ends at the mouth of the Lievre River, which has a small waterfall and a pool to cool down in, which was welcomed by all after the long hike. Rock carvings along the river left by ship captains and explorers dating back to the 18th century were very interesting and started many conversations about treasures being left on the island.
The park ranger referred us to two different spots for snorkeling: one at Manuelita Rock, famous for hammerhead and tiger sharks. The second spot was a reef close to Chatham Bay Beach. No hammerhead or tiger sharks were spotted, but many other species were enjoyed during the snorkeling sessions. Lots of sea life around the reefs with great visibility. Everyone enjoyed the snorkeling sessions, even being a bit nervous about the predators this island is known for.
We moved FALKEN to a mooring in Wafer Bay late in the afternoon. Once moored, we enjoyed another evening of good food and conversation.
This was truly a remarkable day in a remarkable place. Cocos Island touched all of our souls today, and will stay with us forever.
// Jakes (Johann Koekemoer)
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Seasickness
But maybe, I thought, with some drugs I could stay ahead of it. The first 48 hours I felt horrible. But luckily with 3 health care professionals on board and in a very encouraging environment, my body found its way. Anyway, someone offered me a patch (unavailable in Canada) and someone else gave me some pills for nausea and now I feel much, much better.
Dolphins and Bioluminescence
We had a good run with the sails but weather has changed and we are once again chasing the wind. Everyone is getting a chance to practice helming in big swell; starting to get a feel of the wind and water and how it pushes and pulls the hull. A pod of dolphins came to visit at night, splashing in the bioluminescent water, and again in the day, dancing in the bow wake. For now enjoying the calmer sea state and falling asleep to the rumble of the engine and the gentle whooshing of the water on the hull.
Greetings from Lala Lemonshark
The brave crew is toughing it out and staying cheerful despite being tossed around. The engine is off and we are true sailing-main and jib. In the first 12 hours we saw two pods of Orca and four humpback whales, two of which were 20 yards off the starboard beam!