Arrival

We gathered in the cockpit last night to reflect on the trip. It took us four days to sail the 500NM rhumb line passage from Bergen to Amsterdam. That’s slow! But we didn’t go slow—we just couldn’t sail straight. In fact, we actually sailed over 650NM and hit speeds of over 11 knots! Evidence that it wasn’t such a “smooth sailing” trip. In fact, quite the opposite.
We began with gale force winds in our faces, then enjoyed a “recovery day” downwind. Then the wind died off altogether, and a few hours of motoring transitioned us into our next day of upwind, before we came screaming along into Amsterdam downwind in 25 knots—gybe, gybe, gybe, and then in! Then a loch to contend with on the entry to the canal was interesting, followed by a few hours of motoring, and we parked up in our dock in Amsterdam marina. I’m not sure the guy cleaning the showers knew quite what was happening as we all poured in!
We said to the crew before we left: you get out of this what you put in. They took it literally, throwing their heart and soul, bodies (some stomach contents), energy, wit, laughter, and the rest in. So unsurprisingly, the final debrief was emotional. “Empowering” was probably the word of the moment, along with “fun” and “resilience.” A comment that really struck me was from Natalia, who highlighted how grateful she was to have been with a group of people that could always find lightness or a reason to laugh—no matter how challenging the circumstances.
It’s one thing I think these passages really teach you—that with the right mindset and good company, you can get through almost anything. Once again, Mia and I were reminded of the power of sailing offshore, and the fun of doing it with people who are up for an adventure.
Until the next one…
— Nikki
NikkiHenderson
View more passage logs


”For some things, we will never be ready.” - Moana 2
After 852 miles of open ocean sailing, the crew of Falken dropped anchor in Moorea's Cook's Bay—not with a quiet glide in, but surfing down waves in a squall, breaking speed records and cheering each other on through the rain. What started as a plan to "just dip a toe" into offshore sailing turned into something harder to explain: the worse the conditions got, the more alive everyone felt. Turns out the question was never whether the crew was ready—it was whether they even needed to be.


Kauehi conundrum
Kauehi atoll was always on the itinerary—until the forecast made it a gamble not worth taking. Squalls, bommies, a tidal pass, and no clean escape route: sometimes the hardest call in sailing is the one that keeps you out of a place, not in it. The Tuamotus will have to wait.


Hove-to!
Falken is too fast—a problem most sailors would kill for, yet here we are, tacking back and forth across the Pacific just to kill time. A rogue low pressure system south of Tahiti has stolen the trades and scrambled our timing for the tidal window into Kauehi's pass, leaving us hove-to 45 miles short of our target in the Tuamotus. Salt licorice, dream sandwich debates, and a philosophical question about mermaid reproduction are helping pass the night.

