Baptism Off Ka’ena Point

For the ancient Hawaiians, O’ahu was the gathering place.  Souls no longer tied to a body made their way to the western most peninsula of O’ahu and jumped off into their next existence; or perhaps it was to  non-existence.  

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They called this place Ka’ena.  My family’s home was on the opposite end of the island.  On day one of Falken’s passage to British Columbia, we were to pass this headland.  It started out gently.  We motored off the dock adjacent the Hawaii Yacht Club exited the Ala Wai Harbor and turned westward.  A new main sail and new yankee unfurled to the trades for the first time.  We were underway in building winds and just as the main was reefed the winds died off.  

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Falken was in the lee of O’ahu’s western mountains; the Wai’a’nae range.  It is taller than the island’s other range called Ko’olau and geologists say each is a remnant of two distinct volcanos.  We were in the wind shadow of the taller range.  The engine restarted.  

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Passing to the starboard were some communities where many residents are of Hawaiian ancestry:  Maile, Nanakuli, and Makaha.  The road ends at a long sandy beach.  I bodysurfed there a few times but never ventured further.  Many decades ago I dreamed of an attempt to drive around the point, but was overcome by huge surf.  Today I’d get a photo.  

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It was known to the captain and mate that once we exited the wind shadow the pressure of the diverted winds, together with the regular flow would be strong.  Many of the crew are experienced sailors.  Others such as myself, not so much.  

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In short order, the winds built to well over 30 knots on the beam.  Falken heeled sharply.  The waves pitched up over two meters.  This sea state was real.  I tried to snap a photo of the point, but only one.  I needed to focus on holding fast and being mindful of my every movement.  The captain set a course of due north and we sailed a close reach.  

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Below deck I took a seat on the low side and became drenched in sweat.  I’ve known toil but not never quite like this.  Fear does not capture the feeling, it was more of shock and awe. My aft had been kicked and the attending hierarchy of needs reduced to a bare minimum.  

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I had finally rounded Ka’ena point.  Ultimately it was not a religious experience nor metaphysical; just the first day of a twenty five hundred mile sail.  

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Cheers.