DAY 4
Spinnaker day! After an extremely peaceful night ghosting along the southern coast of Portugal amongst electric dolphins and under a blanket of stars, FALKEN enjoyed a day of building breezes and a chance to stretch our legs downwind. Shortly after sunrise, we jibed the ship onto starboard tack and headed SSW. I was conscious of not heading too far west and towards Gibraltar, where all the recent orca encounters have been. In fact, if I’d had a choice, we’d have sailed west and out into the Atlantic from Sagres, not going anywhere near Gibraltar at all. Alas, that elongated ridge of high pressure was centered just offshore Sao Vincente, and so if we wanted to sail, we needed wind, and the wind was to the east.
Alex & Mia came on deck to lead the crew in hoisting the big pink kite. Everything takes ten times longer with new crew on the first try, but out here we have nothing but time, so it took the time it needed to get everything set right. With Mia on the helm, we pulled the downline on the sock and the 3,000-sq.ft. S2 opened up in the breeze and FALKEN surged ahead.
We spent the day sailing under the chute, dousing it before dinnertime and getting all the lines and gear stowed for the night. It’s November, and while it’s nice and warm here off southern Portugal, the nights are long. It gets dark around 1730 and doesn’t get light again until around 0700, so the night watches are long. But the stargazing more than makes up for it. We passed around the binoculars last night, taking turns looking at Orion’s belt and the millions of stars in the background that you’d never see ashore.
At sunrise today, we sheeted in the sails and tacked. Now we’re close-hauled, aiming ENE and starting the long upwind slog back towards Lagos. We’re taking bets on how many miles we’ll actually sail, since we have to tack upwind. It’s about 100 miles in a straight line, but we’ll do many more than that against the wind. It’s a light wind though, and very pleasant out here! — Andy
andy@59-north.com
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Shooting Stars & Turtle Logs
Day three out of Ketchikan and FALKEN is running wing on wing down the outside of Vancouver Island. The temptation is to lie back in the cockpit and spend the night watching for shooting stars, but a diligent watch is always the first priority. So we keep a sharp eye out while the shooting stars keep us company through the night. The wildlife keeps coming: humpback and minke whales, five mola molas, dolphins, and a black-footed albatross. We are all feeling lucky for such conditions!
Pot dodging and whale watching
Duncan got us up to eleven knots at one point! The Ferriers also logged our first Orca sighting on their 3am-6am watch! This morning is a gift as the temps are just right and we finally have some blue sky and plenty of sunshine. It was a glorious few hours sailing before it inevitably died as forecast. I live in hope that by sunset tonight we’ll be back sailing as we emerge out of the lee of the island and the wind will be more westerly which lends itself to a better sailing angle.
We are off!
After two days of introductions, safety briefings and boat procedures we have departed Ketchikan. We are currently making a whopping 3.3 knots as there is very little wind in Nichols Passage. Adam fed us well last night with a delicious shrimp curry and Duncan was the winner of a sporty game of the card version Monopoly. With the scenic views and light wind it's quite peaceful out here.