On anchor in Nuku Hiva!
16.15 LOCAL TIME | Taiohae Bay, Nuku Hiva, Marquesas
On Anchor
Tomorrow crew arrive to join us an exploratory sail from Nuka Hiva to Tahiti, via the Tuamotus. I arrived just under a week ago to take over from Alex, and was immediately a bit nonplussed to find the weather in the Marquesas to be worse than what I’d just left in the UK! It’s rainy season here which has meant a constant dance of opening/closing hatches in an attempt to combat the heat when it’s not raining. Despite this, it is an impressive anchorage, the rain clouds adding atmosphere to the lush hills that surround us. Alex, Mia and Zoe have obviously done a wonderful job (as per) and the boat is in top condition, and the food is now restocked ready to welcome our oncoming watch.
The plan is to sail a relatively (for FALKEN!) short 800 miles to Tahiti, stopping at the Tuamotus on the way. Current plan is to spend a night on Ua-Pou to see the highest peaks in the Marquesas, and maybe even get some of their delicious chocolate! From there we venture onto what is unnervingly known as the ’dangerous archipelago’ of Tuamotus. Whilst it is famed for it’s picturesque beaches and diving, the strong currents in the passes and big bommies (huge coral heads) require good timing and a sharp lookout.
Sailing wise it’s looking like lovely trade wind sailing, maybe even spinnaker sailing on the final leg from the Tuamotus, which personally I’m stoked for- it doesn’t feel that long since I was last onboard and either desperately searching for wind or slamming into it on the nose!
Zoe, Mia and myself are all looking forward to being underway again, meet some new crew, explore some more islands and let’s be honest- getting out of the rain. You’ll find me practicing my pronunciation of the islands until then!
Skipper Mary
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Seasickness
But maybe, I thought, with some drugs I could stay ahead of it. The first 48 hours I felt horrible. But luckily with 3 health care professionals on board and in a very encouraging environment, my body found its way. Anyway, someone offered me a patch (unavailable in Canada) and someone else gave me some pills for nausea and now I feel much, much better.
Dolphins and Bioluminescence
We had a good run with the sails but weather has changed and we are once again chasing the wind. Everyone is getting a chance to practice helming in big swell; starting to get a feel of the wind and water and how it pushes and pulls the hull. A pod of dolphins came to visit at night, splashing in the bioluminescent water, and again in the day, dancing in the bow wake. For now enjoying the calmer sea state and falling asleep to the rumble of the engine and the gentle whooshing of the water on the hull.
Greetings from Lala Lemonshark
The brave crew is toughing it out and staying cheerful despite being tossed around. The engine is off and we are true sailing-main and jib. In the first 12 hours we saw two pods of Orca and four humpback whales, two of which were 20 yards off the starboard beam!