March 2, 2025 | Sailing and Exploring the San Blas Islands
Sailing the San Blas: A Journey Through Waves and Culture
I am currently on the sailboat NORDIC FALKEN, or just FALKEN as everyone refers to it. My role on the boat is as crew, on a journey that started in Cartagena, Colombia, and will end in Panama City, Panama. You may already realize there is one big obstacle in our way—the American continent! And so, we will cross through the legendary Panama Canal. For now, we are meandering through the San Blas Islands, a place that feels almost untouched by time.
San Blas: A Hidden Gem in the Caribbean
The San Blas archipelago is little known outside sailing communities, but it is a true paradise. The islands are fringed with lush palms, sugar-white sand, and some of the most vibrant coral reefs in the world. Snorkeling here is an absolute dream—the water is crystal clear, teeming with marine life, and free of strong tidal currents. The wind has plenty of room to roam, but the waves are kept in check by expansive coral reefs, making the area ideal for sailors and snorkelers alike. Yet, what makes San Blas truly special isn’t just the scenery. It’s the people.
The Cuna (Guna) People: Keepers of the San Blas
The islands are home to the Cuna (Guna) people, an Indigenous group that has preserved its traditions and autonomy for centuries. The Guna Yala comarca (a self-governing region) consists of more than 360 islands, though only about 50 are inhabited. The Guna have fiercely resisted modernization, choosing to maintain their distinct language, customs, and economy.
One of the most fascinating aspects of Guna culture is their molas—intricately hand-stitched textiles that feature bold, geometric designs. Each mola tells a story, with layers of fabric sewn together using an ancient appliqué technique. They are not just art but a vital expression of identity, history, and worldview.
Unlike many Indigenous communities that have been displaced, the Guna still govern themselves, control their land, and even restrict large-scale tourism to prevent environmental and cultural degradation. The result? A place that remains authentic and deeply connected to its roots—a rare treasure in today’s world.
Night Watch Reflections: Between Terror and Triumph
As for our journey, we set out Thursday at mid-morning from Cartagena, aiming to complete the 200-nautical-mile crossing in under 30 hours. The sail went smoothly, but my night watch from 22:00 to 02:00 was an entirely different adventure.
We are eight crew members, not counting the skipper, mate, and bosun, and we rotate watches in teams of four. My first real test came when the wind picked up to 20+ knots, and the waves towered several meters high. There I was—miles from land, surrounded by darkness, save for the faint red glow of the compass in front of me.
It was exhilarating. It was terrifying. It was both.
The boat heaved and surged, moving up, down, and sideways in unpredictable ways. Keeping our course was a mental battle. At times, the crashing waves and disorienting motion overwhelmed me—I felt the boat drifting off course, lost in the night. But this is where a great crew and experienced leaders make all the difference. Our skipper and mate took turns at the second helm station, gently guiding us back on track when needed. Their calm confidence was contagious.
Despite the chaos of the waves and the howling wind, there was an unexpected sense of peace. Sailing teaches you to trust—not only in yourself but in your crew and the boat itself. It’s a reminder that even in the toughest conditions, you can adapt, learn, and push beyond what you thought possible.
By the time my shift ended, I was exhausted, but I had also grown in ways I didn’t expect. What started as a night of uncertainty became one of the most terrific—or terrifying—experiences of my life.
Onward to Panama
As we continue towards Colon, the entrance to the Panama Canal, I find myself reflecting on how lucky I am to be on this journey. Sailing is more than just moving from one place to another—it’s about discovery, challenge, and connection. The San Blas Islands have left a deep impression on me—not just for their beauty, but for the resilient and inspiring Guna people who call them home.
And now, a new challenge awaits—the engineering marvel of the Panama Canal. But that’s a story for another day.
Fair winds and following seas!
- Håkan Söderbom, FALKEN Crew
crew@59-north.com
View more passage logs
HMS Night Watch Party
Wing on wing worked well until the wind shifted then the helm became the cone of despair for our night watch crew of three (H, M and S) Alex made the decision to drop the pole, shifting wing on wing to a close reach. Wind increased to low teens and speed picked up to a flying pace. Day spent wandering toward Ensenada. Alex, Adam and David got us into port under another starry night.
No Kitemares Today
After a night marked by sudden wind accelerations peeling off Point Conception, and a vibrant, pulsating sky blistered with shooting stars, the off-watch woke to commotion on the foredeck. The wind had gone light and the swell had tapered just enough to raise the spinnaker. The sail filled with an urgent pop, the sheet strained and Falken charged down the face of the next wave. By mid-day, we doused the spinnaker and set our minds to the more precise task of safely punching through a gap in the notorious Cortez Bank. The border to Mexico looms ahead.
The California coast
We had a very lively first day of sailing with steady winds between 25 and 30 kn gusting to mid 30s. All of the crew got experience at difficult downwind helming as we covered 200 nautical miles in the first 24 hours. This morning brings winds in the teens and calmer seas. The sun is still shining, and the green monster has been slayed by those afflicted!