March 2, 2025 | Sailing and Exploring the San Blas Islands
Sailing the San Blas: A Journey Through Waves and Culture
I am currently on the sailboat NORDIC FALKEN, or just FALKEN as everyone refers to it. My role on the boat is as crew, on a journey that started in Cartagena, Colombia, and will end in Panama City, Panama. You may already realize there is one big obstacle in our way—the American continent! And so, we will cross through the legendary Panama Canal. For now, we are meandering through the San Blas Islands, a place that feels almost untouched by time.
San Blas: A Hidden Gem in the Caribbean
The San Blas archipelago is little known outside sailing communities, but it is a true paradise. The islands are fringed with lush palms, sugar-white sand, and some of the most vibrant coral reefs in the world. Snorkeling here is an absolute dream—the water is crystal clear, teeming with marine life, and free of strong tidal currents. The wind has plenty of room to roam, but the waves are kept in check by expansive coral reefs, making the area ideal for sailors and snorkelers alike. Yet, what makes San Blas truly special isn’t just the scenery. It’s the people.
The Cuna (Guna) People: Keepers of the San Blas
The islands are home to the Cuna (Guna) people, an Indigenous group that has preserved its traditions and autonomy for centuries. The Guna Yala comarca (a self-governing region) consists of more than 360 islands, though only about 50 are inhabited. The Guna have fiercely resisted modernization, choosing to maintain their distinct language, customs, and economy.
One of the most fascinating aspects of Guna culture is their molas—intricately hand-stitched textiles that feature bold, geometric designs. Each mola tells a story, with layers of fabric sewn together using an ancient appliqué technique. They are not just art but a vital expression of identity, history, and worldview.
Unlike many Indigenous communities that have been displaced, the Guna still govern themselves, control their land, and even restrict large-scale tourism to prevent environmental and cultural degradation. The result? A place that remains authentic and deeply connected to its roots—a rare treasure in today’s world.
Night Watch Reflections: Between Terror and Triumph
As for our journey, we set out Thursday at mid-morning from Cartagena, aiming to complete the 200-nautical-mile crossing in under 30 hours. The sail went smoothly, but my night watch from 22:00 to 02:00 was an entirely different adventure.
We are eight crew members, not counting the skipper, mate, and bosun, and we rotate watches in teams of four. My first real test came when the wind picked up to 20+ knots, and the waves towered several meters high. There I was—miles from land, surrounded by darkness, save for the faint red glow of the compass in front of me.
It was exhilarating. It was terrifying. It was both.
The boat heaved and surged, moving up, down, and sideways in unpredictable ways. Keeping our course was a mental battle. At times, the crashing waves and disorienting motion overwhelmed me—I felt the boat drifting off course, lost in the night. But this is where a great crew and experienced leaders make all the difference. Our skipper and mate took turns at the second helm station, gently guiding us back on track when needed. Their calm confidence was contagious.
Despite the chaos of the waves and the howling wind, there was an unexpected sense of peace. Sailing teaches you to trust—not only in yourself but in your crew and the boat itself. It’s a reminder that even in the toughest conditions, you can adapt, learn, and push beyond what you thought possible.
By the time my shift ended, I was exhausted, but I had also grown in ways I didn’t expect. What started as a night of uncertainty became one of the most terrific—or terrifying—experiences of my life.
Onward to Panama
As we continue towards Colon, the entrance to the Panama Canal, I find myself reflecting on how lucky I am to be on this journey. Sailing is more than just moving from one place to another—it’s about discovery, challenge, and connection. The San Blas Islands have left a deep impression on me—not just for their beauty, but for the resilient and inspiring Guna people who call them home.
And now, a new challenge awaits—the engineering marvel of the Panama Canal. But that’s a story for another day.
Fair winds and following seas!
- Håkan Söderbom, FALKEN Crew
crew@59-north.com
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A last hurrah
Under the dome of stars in a moon-less sky, each of us during our time at the helm used the most rudimentary celestial navigation, keeping a star or two lined up with the mast as a helper to following the heading range. It was a whole crew event to set the spinnaker, reef the mainsail and practice the heave-to in case of man overboard. Alex stressed that the key to success in all of these crucial activities is preparation. It was hugely satisfying to accomplish these tasks through teamwork. We share a constant good hearted back and forth full of stories, one-liners and comebacks that also means constant laughter.
One little bird!
Falken has almost rounded the Channel Islands and is cruising along splendidly about 100 miles offshore. Though several models predicted some slightly fresher winds today, we were met with a consistent 18-20 kts of pure bliss. It seems that from the moment we left the dock in San Francisco, there has been much laughter and conversation amongst everyone. The plan is to gybe in a few hours and begin our approach to Ensenada. As much as I do appreciate the jokes and intellectual musings, I equally appreciate the natural, silent moments we share at night, all of us on watch gazing up above to the shooting stars, constellations, and planets putting on their quiet show.
Birds and glows
The sun brought new wind and we were soon putting up the Yankee (jib) and turning off the motor. During the evening tradition of sharing “glums and glows” that follows the crew dinner, our Mate Ryan proclaimed it a “champagne sailing” kind of day. As Alex noted this evening, life goes by so fast that one of the very best things about his line of work is enjoying the passage of time in the slow lane of an ocean passage. But by tomorrow, the green blobs in the weather sailing app indicate we’re going to pick up some significant northwesterly winds and we’ll take them ever further south to the Channel Islands latitude. We’re all super excited for the knots to climb and to see Falken really run.