Pre-Depature for Isla del Cocos
1351 UTC | 10 26.41’N 85 47.30’W
Dockside Costa Rica
The wind has been blowing these last couple of days, a casual 30+ knots, meaning we’ve sadly lost the ability to have our shade up (pity Jake and myself with our ginger tendencies). That is not to say the breeze isn’t welcome! I have been compulsively checking the forecast in the hope that the equatorial trough takes a long-deserved break, which would allow us to sail all the way to Cocos. Shockingly, so far no luck, but at least we’ll have a good sail to start the trip off.
Unusually for 59º North, arguably the real pull of this next trip isn’t the sailing, but the destination — a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Isla del Coco, also known as Island of the Sharks. The 24 km island is a 305-mile trip into the Pacific (requires a fair amount of zooming on a map to spot), was the inspiration for Jurassic Park, and is one of 11 conservation areas in Costa Rica. Jacques Cousteau described it as the most beautiful place on the planet and it is considered one of the top diving destinations in the world. Whilst we will be snorkeling rather than diving, with such an abundance of marine life — particularly pelagic species — I don’t think we’ll be disappointed. On land, as befitting of the place that inspired Jurassic Park, evergreen forests, waterfalls, and lookout points are there to explore. It is one of the few pristine places left on Earth, and it is a very exciting privilege to visit!
Cocos is located only 5 degrees above the equator, so as expected the wind will be fluky and variable, and there’s a good chance of rain as we journey south. We will be going like a bat out of hell when we depart Guanacaste, with the Papagayo winds giving us a good push — even better, for the first time in weeks we’ll be sailing downwind!! We plan on hugging the Nicoya Peninsula because I’m STILL not done talking about the Tehuantepecers. They are absolutely hooning at 50 knots right now, and whilst I’m not planning on popping back north, the NW’ly sea state they generate will be making its way down south and crashing into the NE’ly swells from the Papagayo winds. If we were to follow the most wind and curve down with the Papagayos, then it would be a horrendous confused sea state, and I like my crew to not be green in the face. Instead, we will plan for a more uniform 2–2.5 m swell whilst still able to utilise the stronger breezes, by initially sticking closer to the coast. There are also currents to consider, which I will save for another blog.
The crew have been brilliant, soaking in all the briefings so we are able to set off as soon as possible in order to get the most time at the island and allow for some not-so-speedy light wind sailing. Today is Matt’s birthday, so Adam has donned one of his many hats and baked a chocolate cake, much to everyone’s delight!
// Mary
View more passage logs
Shooting Stars & Turtle Logs
Day three out of Ketchikan and FALKEN is running wing on wing down the outside of Vancouver Island. The temptation is to lie back in the cockpit and spend the night watching for shooting stars, but a diligent watch is always the first priority. So we keep a sharp eye out while the shooting stars keep us company through the night. The wildlife keeps coming: humpback and minke whales, five mola molas, dolphins, and a black-footed albatross. We are all feeling lucky for such conditions!
Pot dodging and whale watching
Duncan got us up to eleven knots at one point! The Ferriers also logged our first Orca sighting on their 3am-6am watch! This morning is a gift as the temps are just right and we finally have some blue sky and plenty of sunshine. It was a glorious few hours sailing before it inevitably died as forecast. I live in hope that by sunset tonight we’ll be back sailing as we emerge out of the lee of the island and the wind will be more westerly which lends itself to a better sailing angle.
We are off!
After two days of introductions, safety briefings and boat procedures we have departed Ketchikan. We are currently making a whopping 3.3 knots as there is very little wind in Nichols Passage. Adam fed us well last night with a delicious shrimp curry and Duncan was the winner of a sporty game of the card version Monopoly. With the scenic views and light wind it's quite peaceful out here.